Desert holiday in the pandemic

We’re all suffering from Covid fatigue – even more so now London’s going into semi-lockdown again just as the nights are drawing in. So what about an autumn holiday in the sun?

The desert isle of Fuerteventura is just four hours away, and easyJet are still offering two flights a week from Gatwick. Fares are as low as you’ll ever get: £37.99 to fly out on October 27, and a mere £15.99 to come back a fortnight later. What’s not to like?

Navigating a path across a dune in Fuerteventura

In late September I flew out to the island with an old friend. And despite some initial nervousness about the complexities of travelling during the pandemic, it was pretty much the perfect holiday. You can follow our exploits in two videos at the end of this article. But first a quick Q&A to answer the obvious questions:

Why go to Fuerteventura?

It’s spectacularly beautiful, with long golden sandy beaches, Saharan deserts, majestic volcanos and atmospheric little towns. And it’s not overdeveloped like so many of the Canary islands.

Is Fuerteventura safe right now?

Yes, very. At the time of writing, the latest 7-day average Covid infection rate was just 25 per 100,000. That compares with well over 100 in most of the UK.

Do you have to wear face masks in Fuerteventura?

Yes, masks are compulsory in all indoor public settings, and also on the street. People adhere to the rule unquestioningly. But you don’t have to wear a mask when you’re sitting at a cafe or restaurant table, and nor do you have to wear one on the beach or outside built-up areas.

Is Fuerteventura deserted right now?

It’s always been one of the quieter Canary islands, much less busy than Tenerife or Gran Canaria for example. And right now, with far fewer foreign tourists coming, the main resorts of Corralejo, Costa Calma and Morro Jable do feel rather empty.

But fear not – most of the bars and restaurants are still open, and you’ll be warmly welcomed wherever you go. Just think of it as being even more relaxing than it would usually be.

What is there to do on the island?

We spent most of our days like this: a relaxing breakfast on our apartment terrace. Then down to the beach for a morning swim. Then some exploring in the afternoon. Maybe a hike up a volcano, or a trek across the sand dunes. Or an expedition over to the other side of the island, with a rucksack full of cool drinks and a wide-brimmed hat to keep the sun at bay… In the evenings, a shower and a beer, and then dinner and more drinks in town.

What’s the weather like in Fuerteventura?

When we were there at the end of September the daytime temperatures hovered around 25 degrees, and at night they never went below 20. Now, in mid-October, you can take a couple of degrees off those figures, but it’s still nice and warm.

Fuerteventura is also enjoyable in November and December, when the days are shorter (it gets dark at 6pm) but the sea is still warm enough to swim in. The only months I’d avoid on the island would be January to March.

Any other top tips for Fuerteventura?

Check out Amelia Bolger’s YouTube channel – she’s been documenting her experiences of life on the island in some really good, informative videos this year.

And if you’re in Morro Jable, visit Irish Times, my favourite bar in town. Run by the formidable Janet from Germany, there’s always a friendly buzz in this lively little venue.

Show me your Fuerteventura holiday videos

Alright then! Here they are. The first is from the south of the island, where we were based at Morro Jable. You’ll see us feeding chipmunks, paddling in Sotavento lagoon, and trekking for miles across the mountains to the wildly beautiful beaches of Cofete and Barlovento…

The second video covers our stay in the north of the island, where we explored the sand dunes of the national park, took a boat over to Lobos island, hiked out to the coastal town of El Cotillo, and climbed Montana Roja volcano. Enjoy!

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